The Adventure Began Here

Standard
The Adventure Began Here

I am back in Culiacan visiting with my family right now. This is where my adventure all began with my first teaching job in Mexico. The plan was to teach for only one school year. Yet here it is, almost five years later, and I am still teaching in Mexico. When I left Culiacan, I taught briefly in Irapuato. But I have spent most of the past four years in Guadalajara. I lived in San Pedro, a quaint colony in Tlaquepaque. This was like living in a small Mexican town, although it is only minutes away by bus from the hustle and bustle of El Centro.

IMG_9843

Culiacan is in the state of Sinaloa. The climate here is much hotter and humid. But the air is so much clearer here than in Guadalajara. There is no ugly cloud of pollution hanging over the city. Traffic is lighter and the streets are cleaner.

I lived in Las Quintas, and that neighborhood hasn’t changed much over the years. But what has changed is ME! Here is a photo of me in my school uniform taken five years ago. I hardly recognize myself!!!!!

In Staff room at Senda 2011

When I lived in Culiacan, I taught with Juan at Instituto Senda del Rio. He helped me with my Spanish and I helped him with his English. He and his wife Lucila literally adopted me into their family. At the time, they had one child, Juan Carlos. Their family has grown and I now have three amazing nietos. 

10928849_10202763334923127_2089221166810409625_n

Juan and Lucila were already at work when I arrived on Wednesday, so my friend Juan Pablo picked me up at the bus station. We went to his house where his mom made an awesome breakfast of machaca, tamales and frijoles. His sister stopped by and we all went to Forum, the big mall here in Culiacan. We browsed, had coffee and then it was time for lunch. Here is a photo of Juan Pablo and his mom at Via Verde.

IMG_0017

Later on in the afternoon Juan Pablo drove me to Juan and Lucila’s. We barely had time to unload my luggage and it was time for Juan Carlos’s soccer practice.

We stopped for raspados after. When we came home I finally had a chance to give the kids the bags of candy, toy cars and bubbles I had brought them. Here is a photo of Juan Carlos and Jose Agustin blowing bubbles. 

IMG_0031

Yesterday I went back to visit Instituto Senda Del Rio. This school will always have a special place in my heart. It was nice to see former colleagues and catch up. And a great deal of the conversation was in Spanish now. While I am not yet fluent, I have definitely come a long way.

The time here is flying by all too quickly. On Monday I leave for Mazatlan. I treasure every moment I spend with my family and friends here in Culiacan, and always look forward to coming home.

Don’t Sleep Nude and Keep A Bag Packed By Your Bed

Standard

When I first came to Mexico almost five years ago, people cautioned me against sleeping in the nude and told me to keep a bag packed by my bed at night, just in case. I had forgotten all about that warning until just after six this morning when I found myself out on the street clad only in a beach cover-up and crocs, with my cell phone and keys in my pocket. Yes, the beach cover-up was the first thing I grabbed when I heard my housemate thunder down the stairs screaming that he smelled gas and that we had to get out of our house.

A loud crash had awakened my other housemates, although I had slept through it. Apparently a driver had lost control of his vehicle before crashing into this house.

IMG_9830

The sleepy occupants climbed over the wall to get out into the street. Meanwhile the truck spun around and continued down the street where it sheared off our water meter, struck the main gas line and then came to a stop on top of a hydro pole. The driver sat bleeding on the sidewalk until an ambulance showed up twenty-five minutes later. Rumor has it that the man has since died.

The above photos were taken later in the morning when it was light out.

Back to 6 am now. I sat there on the curb with my neighbor Carlos and his two dogs. I thought of my laptop, my life, back in my room. I thought of all my identification and my bank cards left behind. And I tried not to think of the worst case scenario in which everything would be blown to bits by that gas leak. So many items that would be extremely difficult if not impossible to replace. And I silently vowed that I would have a backpack with these items by my bed at night from now on.

I’m a people watcher by nature. I noticed that residents were quite animated and more concerned with their homes being looted by the police than they were with their homes being blown to bits by a gas explosion. And in our haste to flee we had left our doors open! Fortunately for us there were some honest police near our house. One even went back to lock our door.

The street was like a war zone — a blur of flashing lights, debris everywhere, downed power lines, water in the streets, the putrid odor of gas. 

Later in the morning, I snapped more photos of the devastation. In the following photo you can see some of the downed power lines requiring repair.

IMG_9841

IMG_9845

In the photo above you can see the damage to our house where the car hit and sheared off the water meter.

Late in the afternoon, the gas, water and electricity were restored. So apparently things can get done efficiently and quickly here in Mexico, although it is a rarity.

There just never is a dull moment on Calle Zalatitan!

Lago Chapala, Jalisco

Standard

Lake Chapala is a short drive from Guadalajara. If you are from Manitoba, you will understand my comparison of Lake Chapala-Ajijic to Winnipeg Beach-Gimli. Except that the water at Lake Chapala is disappearing from the lake! Three years ago when I first visited this area, it looked like this.

IMG03909-20111106-1449

Today it looks like this.

IMG_9757

However it is still a lovely place for a day trip from Guadalajara. And Lake Chapala also boasts a large expat community. English is widely spoken here as well. A large WalMart is minutes away, in between Lake Chapala and Ajijic, another large expat community. There are numerous restaurants, shops and businesses. I enjoy walking along the malecon and strolling through the tianguis. 

IMG_9736

IMG_9753

I decided to play tourist on this visit and made my way to the Chapala Inn, my favorite lunch spot right on the lake. Here I purchased a ticket for the Chapala Express, a quaint trolley that tours the streets of Chapala and then proceeds on to Ajijic. The tour is given in Spanish and I was amazed at how much I understood. And the tour went by a sports park and a cultural centre that I had never seen before. 

IMG_9772

I also spent some time in the church. I love rambling around in old churches in Mexico. The architecture is amazing, as well as the stained glass, art and statues. Fortunately there were few people there so I was able to take quite a few photos. I always limit my photos when there are lots of people focused on prayer.

IMG_9715

IMG_9718

On my way back to the bus station, I stopped for a quesadilla and a cerveza by the square. The shade was very welcome and I sat for a while, enjoying the scenery.

IMG_9786

IMG_9696

All too soon it was time to head back to the city. The bus station was bustling with activity and the buses were crowded. I boarded a direct bus and was blessed with air-conditioning. Traffic was surprisingly light and an hour later I was back in Guadalajara.

Calle Independencia, Tlaquepaque

Standard
Calle Independencia, Tlaquepaque

One of my favorite streets in Tlaquepaque is Calle Independencia. This pedestrian pathway bustles with activity and music day and night. It is bordered by Ninos Heroes on one end and El Jardin Hidalgo on the other.

I began my stroll on Ninos Heroes, with an Oxxo on the corner and a chicken rotisserie across from it. There is no escaping Oxxo. These stores are everywhere. I then passed a shoe store and found myself in front of Tlaquepulque. No visit to Tlaquepaque is complete without a sampling of pulque, a specialty here.

IMG_9644

Steps later I arrived at the junction of Ejercito, an area resplendent with bars and music. The first of many statues along this street are also found here.

IMG_9647

I then continued along past restaurants, shops and a ceramic museum until I came across these guys.
IMG_9649
There are so many other fabulous ones like these, so I will add more photos.

IMG_9653

IMG_9656

 There are several vendors displaying their wares although it is still quite early in the morning. Everything from jewelry to candy can be found here.

IMG_9658

The restaurants are preparing to open for the day, setting tables outside on the street.

IMG_9661

My two favorite restaurants are Casa Luna and El Patio. But there are several more along Independencia as well, some of them providing entertainment by mariachis.
And here is the most famous of the statues along this street.

IMG_9674

A variety of shops sell clothing, jewelry, leather, candy, tequila and decorative ornaments. But ever so popular are the ice cream stores.

IMG_9670

I soon arrive at the Jardin Hidalgo. While the fountains and flowers provide tranquility, this garden bustles with activity day and night. Food vendors offer everything from tortas ahogadas to roasted vegetables. And I highly recommend the churros! There is a kiosko in the square, and the garden is also flanked by two churches.

IMG_9677

IMG_9678

IMG_9679

I am very fortunate to have lived for the past four years within a fifteen minute walk of this amazing street. It’s no wonder that this has become a major tourist attraction here in Tlaquepaque.

I Will Miss You Tlaquepaque

Standard
I Will Miss You Tlaquepaque

I first arrived in Tlaquepaque on October 1, 2011. This is a quaint area that is part of the greater metropolis of Guadalajara. But it has the feel of a small Mexican town and it’s a short twenty minute bus ride to El Centro, an area I have come to know very well.

Tlaquepaque grows on you. I live in the colony of San Pedro, much to the envy of many people. And I will miss this neighborhood when I head back to Canada for a while. Yes, I will miss the climate, but it’s the people and the culture that I will miss the most.

In the morning should I decide I want eggs for breakfast, it’s only a few feet to a tienda. These small corner stores are packed with products. And they are oh so convenient!

IMG_0935

If I don’t feel like cooking, Vic down the street cooks awesome burgers and another street vendor offers an array of tacos, gorditas and tostados. Another lady has wonderful tortas ahogadas. There is a stand with fresh juices. And the tamale truck drives by regularly. Ice cream vendors walk by constantly, and churros are just around the corner.

The people are all so friendly and greetings of Buenos Dias and Buenas Noches are the norm. My neighbor Carlos is always out walking his dogs. People sit out on their doorsteps and congregate on street corners. It is safe to walk the streets here, day and night.

A number of buses stop on the corner of my street regularly. The Zeta gas truck and the water truck drive by frequently. And it is not uncommon to see horses and wagons come by my house as well as cars.

IMG_1780

The Jardin Hidalgo is a ten minute walk from my house. The kiosko often comes alive with music in the evenings, and the street vendors are out in full force. My favorite incense shop is one of the many small shops near the garden. In one direction is the famed El Parian, and in the other direction is the popular Calle Independencia. Tourists flock to this area, especially on the weekends and during the winter months. Artesans display their wares and there are fabulous restaurants and bars in abundance. There is also a ceramics museum.

Also within a few blocks of my house is the El Refugio Cultural Center. The entertainment and displays here are amazing and there is often no charge for admission.

IMG_7507

My second home away from home is a small coffee shop called Jahanve. My friend Claudia brews awesome coffee and her culinary talents are most impressive. I have spent many happy hours over the years here with friends, and Timmie’s in Winnipeg cannot hold a candle to Jahanve.

I will also miss the music of my favorite band Barbershop. Amazing renditions of The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and Creedence Clearwater Revival are only part of their repertoire.

 IMG_9517

 

I will miss the awesome museums and beautiful parks in Guadalajara. There are gorgeous statues and fountains in abundance on the streets here. The zoo is spectacular and boasts a sky ride and a safari ride.But my favorite retreat is Parque Mirador. The view of the canyon is beyond breathtaking.

image_4 (3)

And last, but definitely not least, I will miss my students. Eager to learn and appreciative of my efforts, the hours have flown by all too quickly.  I have taught in private schools, language institutes and companies. My students have included accountants, doctors, lawyers, engineers, computer geeks, business people, teenagers and young children. Hours filled with animated conversation and grammar have sped by all too quickly. We have played games, had competitions, have decorated classrooms for holidays and have even tie-dyed T shirts.

It’s with a heavy heart that I will board a plane one month from today to return to Winnipeg. Today the weather up north is stormy—–snow and freezing rain. I sincerely hope that this will all have disappeared by the end of April.

But I will be returning to Mexico. This country is where my heart lies now. What was to be a one year venture has extended instead to almost five years. And I look forward to many more years here.

The Countdown Is On

Standard

I can’t believe that my time is almost up in Mexico. It seems like only yesterday I arrived in Rosarito, and yet it was almost a year and a half ago.

I had fully intended to settle down in the Baja. However, after a week of unsuccessful attempts at finding an apartment, I decided that maybe Rosarito just wasn’t the place to hang my hat. While the beach definitely had its appeal, the idea of living in a poor man’s Vallarta did not.

After a spectacular bus ride through the mountains and a rather tedious journey south, I arrived in Culiacan in the face of hurricane warnings. But instead I was greeted by hot, humid and sunny weather. I spent a few days visiting with my Mexican family and then headed for Guadalajara.

I rented an apartment in the same house as I had the year before. I was home. My favorite tiendas and taco stands were still here. The neighbors were the same. The only difference was the newly paved sidewalks and streets, most welcome after having had knee surgery. I quickly and easily found a job teaching in a language institute, and the time has just flown by all too quickly.

My life here in Mexico has for the most part been comfortable and fulfilling, despite the challenges of obtaining a work visa and health care coverage. The stress level is significantly lower due to the slower pace of life. There’s always another bus, there’s always another train, there’s always another day.

I enjoy my classes and have amazingly delightful students. The learning experience has been reciprocal, and my students have taught me a great deal about life in general, not just life in Mexico. And I am so grateful to have had this wonderful opportunity over the past few years.

It was extremely difficult to book that flight back to Winnipeg. While I am excited about seeing my family and friends, as well as my book launch, I am not looking forward to the flurry of other activities that await me. After a prolonged absence, there are medical appointments and financial planning that require my attention.

But I am determined to focus on the more positive aspects of returning to Winnipeg. My son had a house built a couple of years ago and his yard is now finished. I have a lot of catching up to do with friends as a lot has happened in the time I’ve been away. There is a new museum I want to visit. IKEA is applying for a liquor licence and Target has come and gone. In lieu of my usual online church service while here in Mexico, it will be great to attend in person. I plan on going to some of my favorite restaurants with my friends. And a cemetery visit is definitely on the agenda to see family who have passed on.

But today is a beautiful, sunny day here in Mexico and my laundry is drying outside on the line. And I will venture out shortly to my favorite incense shop and then spend some time in the Jardin Hidalgo before I teach my afternoon classes.

IMG_5348

A Park, A Book and A Journal

Standard

It’s a beautiful sunny day and I’m thinking of a million different things I should be doing this morning. I should do some laundry. I should pick up a few groceries. I should, I should, I should. But I won’t. Instead I pack up a book, my journal and of course my cell phone and I head to the park.

I use the term “park” quite loosely. There are very few trees here and there are no flowers. But there are tables and benches more conducive to writing or reading.

IMG_8829

There are two basketball courts across from the table where I am sitting. Interestingly enough, I have never seen anyone play basketball here. Instead, the game of choice is soccer.

IMG_8837

The swings, slides and climbers are always popular among the children.

IMG_8822

But I sit here at a table, alternating between reading a book and writing in my journal. The shouts of the children and the roar of buses passing by are acceptable background noises. Occasionally a dog comes by to check me out and people passing by often greet me with “Buenas Tardes”.

The book I am reading today is about a family in Dublin. The father, an abusive alcoholic, disappears one night and is never heard from again. The wife is left alone to cope with three teenage sons who are resentful and bitter and have turned to a life of crime.

In my journal I am writing about feelings; mainly how I am tired of always trying to do the right thing and banging my head against a brick wall every time. That’s what it feels like. But it’s difficult to look the other way when you see others hurting, despite the fact that they are never there for you when you are in pain. And then they totally ignore your attempts to reach out to them. Life is just too damn short and every moment is precious. Maybe it’s time to change my focus.

Change_is_good_by_biswajittuka

My thoughts are interrupted by the chime of my cell phone. Apparently my daily horoscope has arrived. Groaning inwardly, I hesitantly tap the “ignore” icon and glance at the time. How could the hours have passed by so quickly? Reluctantly, I return my journal and book to my backpack. My students await and I have classes to teach. Life in Dublin and pondering my feelings will have to wait for another time. 

 

So I Went To Manzanillo

Standard
So I Went To Manzanillo

I love my life in Mexico. Tlaquepaque is a delightful place to live. The one drawback is that there is no beach close by. By bus it’s just over five hours to Puerto Vallarta or seven hours to Mazatlan. I decided that the time had come to explore new beaches.

I headed for Central Nueva and boarded a bus for Manzanillo. I enjoyed the scenery as we traveled out of Jalisco and into the state of Colima.

IMG_9297

As well as a popular tourist destination, Manzanillo is also a major cargo port and has a small malecon. The Centro area is that of a typical Mexican puebla with a sizeable mercado and streets lined with small tiendas. 

I stayed at a hotel in the hotel zone area. There was very little within walking distance of the hotel itself; only a small mall and a few taquerias. However when I stepped out of my room, the view was spectacular.

IMG_9309

Steps down from the pool was the beach. The red flags were out and the tide was high. But I really did enjoy the sound of the waves crashing against the shore. This beautiful music lulled me to sleep at night and woke me from dreamland in the morning.

IMG_9346

I also enjoyed seeing the ships at a distance. Some were fishing trawlers and others were cargo. There were no cruise ships in view in the time I was there. Here are photos I took at sunset.

IMG_9408

 

IMG_9405

 IMG_9406

 There is something so peaceful and serene about watching the sun slowly disappear from view in the evening. Do you agree?

Monday Monday

Standard

Monday morning! I remember when I used to dread Monday mornings. But that was another lifetime ago when I worked at jobs I did not enjoy. Here in Mexico it’s a whole different story.

I usually wake up a few minutes before my alarm goes off at 5:30 am. It’s still dark outside but my mood is light. Now, if only the temperature would warm up in Guadalajara. The mornings are quite cool in the winter and the mercury frequently dips to 5 Celsius or less.

 

By 6:30 I am on the street corner waiting for a 275 or a 275B. These are interesting buses as there are no schedules here. Usually they show up two at a time and then begin to race each other as they head towards Centro. Drivers are not paid a salary. They receive a percentage of the take. So the more passengers they can cram on the better.

Twenty minutes later finds me in Centro. It’s a short walk to Plaza de Universidad, where I await a Tur bus. This second bus costs twice as much as the first one, but it’s very comfortable and not as crowded and gets me to within three blocks of the school in Zapopan.

Time permitting, I walk through La Estancia Park. I enjoy watching people walking their dogs or themselves. People are friendly and I am always greeted with “Buenos dias”. Such a wonderful way to begin my day!

IMG_2675

Time to head for school. I teach an Advanced ESL class with two adult students who are both accountants. They are delightful and are eager to learn English. They often surprise me with culinary treats. This morning they ordered in a delicious breakfast from a restaurant. On other days they have arrived with tamales or cookies or pastry. But what I like the best are the bright smiles and laughter that always pervade the classroom.

The two hours pass quickly and I am soon on my way back to San Pedro. The bus ride usually takes longer than it did earlier in the morning. The traffic in Guadalajara is unbelievably congested. To make matters worse, if an accident occurs, cars are not moved out of the way until the police arrive. This morning our bus took a completely different route to Centro, as traffic was backed up and our driver had no patience for traffic jams. Bus drivers here like to lean on their horns in an effort to keep traffic flowing. Not that it really helps. It just encourages cars to honk as well.

In San Pedro there is a street market on Mondays close to my house. It stretches for blocks and the variety of merchandise is astounding. Everything from pirated movies to tacos to fresh fish to clothing to tools can be found here. And the vendors love to haggle!

IMG06860-20121112-1103

I return home and begin the tedious task of washing vegetables in Microdyn. I store them in empty yogurt containers, which we laughingly call Mexican Tupperware.

While  the vegetables are soaking in the Microdyn, I take out my laptop and check emails and Facebook. And I begin writing a blog post.

I then take a walk to the park where I do some reading and journaling. I enjoy watching the children play in the playground and have fond memories of my own children at that age.

IMG_8822

Then it’s off to Jahanve, my favorite coffee shop, to meet my language partner. I definitely need to practice my Spanish, and he is eager to improve his English.

I leave for home at dusk, contemplating what I will have for dinner. By now many of the street food vendors are out, and the tacos, tamales and birria are quite tempting. But today I have decided to cook some of those fresh vegetables along with some chicken.

After dinner I visit with my housemates and often phone friends back in Canada. And then it’s time to read and head for dreamland.

Mondays are great days!

 

 

My Dad, My Hero, In Heaven

Standard
My Dad, My Hero, In Heaven

On February 8, 1977 I was excitedly packing a suitcase. Four days later I was to leave for San Diego to visit my parents. They wintered down south as my dad had a heart condition and Winnipeg winters were far too strenuous to endure.

I fell asleep that night but was startled awake in the middle of the night by a pounding in my heart that actually caused me to sit up straight in bed. And I could not fall back asleep again. About an hour later my phone rang, and a voice at the other end informed me that my dad had passed away of a heart attack.

It was Wednesday, February 9th. And I would never see my daddy again. I would never hear his voice or the sound of his laughter again. I would never see him smile again. I would never feel a hug or a kiss again. My world was shattered and my life would never be the same again.

My dad taught me how to tie my shoelaces and how to ride a bike. He taught me how to drive a car. He impressed upon me the importance of getting an education.  And he taught me a lot about life. 

He left school at the age of fourteen as his own father became ill. He was the sole source of financial support to his parents and three younger siblings. His sisters and brother all went on to obtain a university education. He always put everyone else in his life first.

At home our freezer was always filled with ice cream, a treat he loved but had enjoyed so rarely as a child. Money earned was always for others, but never for himself.

My dad was truly a self-made man and worked long hours, successfully building up his company. He would sit at the kitchen table doing the accounting for his business and I would play the piano providing a musical background he enjoyed. Sometimes in the evenings he would go back to work to do some manual labor, and I would grab my homework and come along to keep him company.

When his health deteriorated, I often drove him to medical appointments or to go shopping. We spoke often on the phone and sent cassette tapes back and forth when he was in San Diego.

Sadly he never met his grandchildren. He would have adored them and loved them as only a grandfather can. My children have definitely missed out on not having a grandfather to dote on them and spend time with them.

I learned a lot from my dad, and I hope that I have instilled some of these values upon my own children. He always said “Where there’s a will, there’s a way” and that has been one of my mantras throughout the years.

Love you forever and always in my heart.

IMG_0137

IMG_0011

May   1973