Tag Archives: Tlaquepaque

museums, parks and attractions in Tlaquepaque

Christmas 2015

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Christmas 2015

This year I took an overnight Turistar to Guadalajara. I arrived early in the morning and headed to the Jardin Hidalgo. The shops surrounding the square were just opening up as were the vendors’ stands. It was very peaceful and I have missed this pastime.

Next I went to Jahanve, a coffee shop I used to frequent. It was great to see Claudia again and I enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast.  My friend Steffie was visiting from Switzerland and we hadn’t seen each other in three years. Another friend, Monica, also joined us.

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That night I stayed with my friend Pedro, a former student, and his family. Pedro and I used to get into sparring debates in Conversation Club, and it was great to converse once again. Here is a photo of Pedro and his wife Mary.

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The following day I headed out to Parque Mirador, my favorite place in all of Guadalajara. The canyon is amazing, and I have spent hours gazing out at the beauty of this marvelous creation of nature.

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That night we headed to Indio Rock to hear my friend German’s band play. Barbershop is an awesome band with fabulous renditions of 60’s and 70’s English rock. The guys posed for a photo before their performance.

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The next morning found me on a bus to Ocotlan, where I met my friend Omar. We went grocery shopping and then headed to his home in Tototlan. We enjoyed a traditional turkey Christmas dinner, visited,  watched movies and relaxed.

We also ventured out around town on his moped. We had a delicious lunch one day near the plaza. Omar has a large family and we visited with his aunt and several of his cousins. We then headed up the mountain to the temple and the view of the town was spectacular.

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All too soon I was headed back home to Mazatlan. The days had flown by far too quickly. It was indeed a Merry Christmas.

Halloween Versus Day Of The Dead

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Halloween Versus Day Of The Dead

Halloween falls on October 31st and Day Of The Dead is close on its heels on November 2nd. While Halloween is celebrated in some areas in Mexico, Day Of The Dead is the more popular of the two.

Halloween began as a pagan ritual, and has evolved into a celebration including costumes and candy treats. It was also believed that Halloween, a day that marked the end of the harvest and the beginning of winter, was not only a transition between seasons but also a bridge to the world of the dead.

Day Of The Dead asserts that the souls of the deceased are allowed to leave heaven and reunite with their families on this day. Families gather in cemeteries and adorn their loved ones’ memorials with beautiful wreaths of flowers. This celebration also involves food, drink and music.

Although Day Of The Dead is a government holiday, restaurants and retail proceed as on any other day. I actually went grocery shopping in the morning and had dinner out with a friend on Monday.

When I lived in Guadalajara, this was Day Of The Dead central. In Centro in the Plaza Del Armas there was a huge display of Katrinas. In Tlaquepaque the streets were colorfully decorated and Calle Independencia was lined with altars. El Refugio also had an array of altars and Katrinas.

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Here in Mazatlan there was a huge parade in the Centro Historico, and people flocked to Plaza Machado in elaborate costumes. There were also festivities at the Angela Peralta Theater. On Sunday a friend took me to the Municipal Cemetery and I was amazed by the activity there.

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Instead of candy, sugar skulls and special bread are the norm.

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I was disappointed that I only saw one altar here in Mazatlan. Families build altars in their homes and in the streets to honor their ancestors. Here are some pics from Tlaquepaque.

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In Mazatlan I did see a few children in costumes going door to door in the Zona Dorada and they were quite young and looked adorable. Unfortunately we drove by them in a car and I was unable to get any photos. Where I’m from in Canada the streets are filled with young children and teenagers on Halloween but Day of the Dead is not celebrated. But here I have the best of both worlds!

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Monday Musings and Memories

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Monday Musings and Memories

A memory showed up on my Facebook page today. Four years ago today I had just arrived in Tlaquepaque and had begun teaching at Culturlingua. One night after class I went to a bar called Otro Nivel with some other teachers. There was a fabulous Mexican band playing awesome English rock music from the 60s and the cerveza was 2 for 1. I live in Mazatlan now and that night at the bar still seems like yesterday although years have passed by.

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Life is for living. There are so many adventures out there just waiting in the wings. Of course the hitch is that this involves change, and many people thrive on routine and the security that it provides. I’ve come to the conclusion that I thrive on change, not on routine. Otherwise I would never have arrived in Tlaquepaque in October of 2011.

In July of 2011  I returned to Winnipeg after teaching in Culiacan. I halfheartedly began searching for a job. But Mexico had stolen my heart, and I knew that I no longer wanted to call Winnipeg “home.” I received a job offer from a school in Irapuato and a month later I was on a plane headed for Leon.  

I  was excited to be back in Mexico although life in Irapuato was definitely different from life in Culiacan.  A sleepy little pueblo where the highlight was the soccer stadium didn’t have much appeal. The school was a disaster as the actual job in no way, shape or form resembled the promises on the Skype interview. But my supervisor Pilar became a good friend. The last Saturday in September, Pilar and I were sipping cappuccinos at The Italian Coffee Company when my phone rang. I glanced at it briefly and Pilar asked who I knew in Mexico City, as that was the area code on the call display. I remarked that it must have been a wrong number or a telemarketer as I didn’t have that number stored in my contacts. My phone rang again a few minutes later and the same number showed up. Annoyed, I turned it off.

I returned home several hours later and turned my phone back on. That Mexico City number had called another four times! Intrigued, I decided to call that number. After all, what if it was an emergency or someone was dying and they were frantically calling my number in error? But it was no error. Instead it was a job offer.

Greg was the owner of Culturlingua in Tlaquepaque. A teacher had left unexpectedly and he was looking for another teacher. He’d seen my resume up on Dave’s ESL Cafe and had been calling me all day. I told him I needed some time to think about it. He gave me until later that evening. I hung up on him and tried calling Pilar but got voicemail.

And I pondered the situation. I was dissatisfied with my job. My housemates were less than desirable. The school had yet to provide me with promised health coverage. But the best was that they had not provided me with a contract either so there really was nothing tying me down to Irapuato. I called Greg back and accepted his offer. And I left a message for Pilar.

It  was now after 8 pm and I had a lot to do. I had to pack and that was complicated by the fact that I had two heavy suitcases that I needed to somehow get down the stairs. Nate and Margie came to my rescue. They were teachers from Hawaii and were as disillusioned with the situation in Irapuato as I was. They agreed to meet me early in the morning and help me with my suitcases. I was so excited that night I could barely sleep!

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Early the next morning before anyone in my house was up, Nate and Margie arrived and helped me with my suitcases. We had to walk a couple of blocks down the street until we found a taxi. I felt like I was fleeing a prison! Did I mention that the director of English at the school lived next door to me in the same house as Nate and Margie? He was pretty livid when he realized I was AWOL. But by then I was on a bus headed for Guadalajara. I should add that Nate and Margie made their own escape shortly thereafter.

I have never looked back. Moving to Tlaquepaque was one of the best decisions I have ever made in my life. I have met some amazing people, have taught awesome students and have had incredible adventures.

My move here to Mazatlan was far less dramatic. I miss Guadalajara and the friends I have left behind. But I am drawn to the beach, to the calming azure waters and the smell of the salty sea air. And I know that more amazing people and incredible adventures await me here. Life is about living. Life is about change. 

Getting Ready To Leave

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Getting Ready To Leave

The following was written but not posted back in April. I miss you Guadalajara. If only you had a beach………….

It’s that time again. It’s been almost eighteen months but it has snuck up on me again. I’ve been setting up appointments in Winnipeg and preparing for my book launch. And now it’s time to pack. And I hate packing!!!!

A smaller bag of books and teaching materials is ready to go. That was easily done as soon as Easter break started. But it’s the two suitcases that are the headache. One stays here in Mexico, and one travels with me to Canada. And I doubt that any of my clothes I wear here are at all appropriate for the weather in Winnipeg. Tempting to just leave everything here and take a backpack with my laptop and a few things on the plane. But that’s just wishful dreaming……..  

This last week in Guadalajara is going by all too quickly. I have made a point of going back to some of my favorite places, although there is still a long list of places I haven’t even been to yet.

My first priority was Parque Mirador. I have spent countless hours here gazing out at the canyon, taking photos and journalling. Peaceful, tranquil and my haven from the real world.

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I spent a day in Zapopan near the Basilica. The vendors were out in full force displaying their religious items, jewelry, books and more. Although I have been here several times before, I finally decided to check out the art museum. Small, quaint and air-conditioned, it featured a tunnel leading to the rooftop where I found this!

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I went back to Tonola and walked for hours. The displays by the artesans are awesome and this is one time I wish I had my own home here and could decorate it myself. I think I’d put this cute little guy out in my garden.

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I also went back for one last visit to Lake Chapala and Ajijic. Although the water is rapidly disappearing from the lake, I still enjoy the walk along the malecon as well as strolling through the tianguis.

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 There are so many beautiful churches here in Guadalajara. The architecture, art and statues are amazing. How wonderful that these ancient buildings have been preserved!

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 I will miss Calle Independencia with its shops, artesans and restaurants. Day and night, this pedestrian pathway is alive with people and music.

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 Guadalajara has some incredible museums. They may not have elevators and restaurants, but the ambiance and the displays are amazing.

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I have spent hours in the Jardin Hidalgo right here in Tlaquepaque. The fountains and flowers are lovely, and this has been a favorite spot for people-watching.

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It goes without saying that I will miss my students, despite the long commutes to Zapopan and Miravalle. We have had some fabulous discussions in Conversation Club and Saturdays just won’t be the same. And I’ll be able to sleep in on Monday and Wednesday mornings! I have really enjoyed my students this year, and I wish them all the best of luck in their studies.

Adios Guadalajara! Hasta luego!

It’s All About Following Your Dream

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It’s All About Following Your Dream

Five years ago I came to Mexico for the first time in my life. I was on a mission trip with my church and we spent a week in an impoverished village in the San Rafael Mountains. This trip changed my life forever. And I knew in my heart that someday I wanted to return to this country.

A mere five months later I found myself on a plane bound for Culiacan. My CTesl in hand, the plan was to teach for a year and then return to Winnipeg. I taught secundaria at a private school and immersed myself in the Mexican culture. I began to learn a new language and discovered new foods. Shopping, taking buses and taxis, the process of obtaining a cellular phone, getting a prescription at a pharmacy…………. these were all strange and different. At times the challenges were overwhelming and I was often discouraged. My mantra was “You can do this Karen. It’s only for one school year.”

But something very unexpected happened. I returned to Winnipeg in the summer, but for only five weeks! I stayed with friends initially, as I had to find an apartment and a job. After only one week in Winnipeg, I knew that I wanted to return to Mexico. And when I was offered a job in Irapuato, I jumped at the opportunity.

Unfortunately the teaching position in Irapuato did not in any way resemble the job description proposed in the Skype interview. After a month with no contract in sight, I headed for Guadalajara where I had been offered a job in a language institute.

I settled into life in Tlaquepaque, a quaint Mexican town in the midst of the second largest city in Mexico. I enjoyed teaching and the months flew by. I returned to Winnipeg for six months to have knee replacement surgery. And I was more than ready to return to Mexico!

I  went back to Tlaquepaque where I taught briefly at a language institute. I then moved on to teaching Business English to companies on site. Once again the months flew by all too quickly and it was time to return to Winnipeg to have a second knee replacement.

I eagerly boarded a flight to San Diego and had a car service pick me up at the airport to drive me to Rosarito in the Baja California. I wanted ocean. But I was so disappointed in Rosarito. The element of the danger of living in a border town hadn’t really crossed my mind. The town itself was depressing. I couldn’t find adequate housing. There were no buses. There were more boarded up shops than open shops. The beach area was not nice at all. The sidewalks rolled up at dusk. This poor man’s Vallarta was not for me!

After a week I headed for the bus station in Tijuana. I enjoyed a spectacular ride through the mountains and arrived in Culiacan in the wake of a hurricane warning. I spent a few days with my Mexican family and then was once again on my way back to Tlaquepaque.

This time I stayed for eighteen months. I taught at a language institute and became somewhat of a grammar guru. I obtained my residente temporal and health insurance from IMSS. I jokingly told my friends that I was becoming a Mexican. I even have long, dark hair now and am suntanned year round. But alas I will never wear those high, high heels that are so popular down here. I treasure my new knees too much.

I returned to Winnipeg via Culiacan, Mazatlan, Sayulita, Bucerias, Puerto Vallarta and Calgary. Amazingly all this was within a twelve day period! And that was when I made the final decision to accept a teaching position and move to Mazatlan. And after five hectic weeks in Winnipeg, I was more than ready to return to Mexico.

Why Mazatlan? I discovered this magical place when I lived in Culiacan and enjoyed coming here on weekends. Mazatlan itself is much smaller than Guadalajara. It’s also much cleaner and has far less pollution. But the real lure for me is the ocean. Water is so peaceful and tranquil. I discovered this years ago when I visited my parents one winter in San Diego. They lived right on Mission Bay. And I often dreamed about living near water.

I have followed this dream for forty years. But it is only recently since my divorce that I have actually been able to live my dream. I realized that it was solely up to me to make this happen. And I did. I am now in Mazatlan, close to the sea. When I seek peace and solitude, it’s mere minutes away. I love the sound of the crashing waves. I love the feel of the ocean spray on my face. The sand beneath my bare feet is a heavenly cushion. And I am home.

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The Adventure Began Here

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The Adventure Began Here

I am back in Culiacan visiting with my family right now. This is where my adventure all began with my first teaching job in Mexico. The plan was to teach for only one school year. Yet here it is, almost five years later, and I am still teaching in Mexico. When I left Culiacan, I taught briefly in Irapuato. But I have spent most of the past four years in Guadalajara. I lived in San Pedro, a quaint colony in Tlaquepaque. This was like living in a small Mexican town, although it is only minutes away by bus from the hustle and bustle of El Centro.

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Culiacan is in the state of Sinaloa. The climate here is much hotter and humid. But the air is so much clearer here than in Guadalajara. There is no ugly cloud of pollution hanging over the city. Traffic is lighter and the streets are cleaner.

I lived in Las Quintas, and that neighborhood hasn’t changed much over the years. But what has changed is ME! Here is a photo of me in my school uniform taken five years ago. I hardly recognize myself!!!!!

In Staff room at Senda 2011

When I lived in Culiacan, I taught with Juan at Instituto Senda del Rio. He helped me with my Spanish and I helped him with his English. He and his wife Lucila literally adopted me into their family. At the time, they had one child, Juan Carlos. Their family has grown and I now have three amazing nietos. 

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Juan and Lucila were already at work when I arrived on Wednesday, so my friend Juan Pablo picked me up at the bus station. We went to his house where his mom made an awesome breakfast of machaca, tamales and frijoles. His sister stopped by and we all went to Forum, the big mall here in Culiacan. We browsed, had coffee and then it was time for lunch. Here is a photo of Juan Pablo and his mom at Via Verde.

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Later on in the afternoon Juan Pablo drove me to Juan and Lucila’s. We barely had time to unload my luggage and it was time for Juan Carlos’s soccer practice.

We stopped for raspados after. When we came home I finally had a chance to give the kids the bags of candy, toy cars and bubbles I had brought them. Here is a photo of Juan Carlos and Jose Agustin blowing bubbles. 

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Yesterday I went back to visit Instituto Senda Del Rio. This school will always have a special place in my heart. It was nice to see former colleagues and catch up. And a great deal of the conversation was in Spanish now. While I am not yet fluent, I have definitely come a long way.

The time here is flying by all too quickly. On Monday I leave for Mazatlan. I treasure every moment I spend with my family and friends here in Culiacan, and always look forward to coming home.

Don’t Sleep Nude and Keep A Bag Packed By Your Bed

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When I first came to Mexico almost five years ago, people cautioned me against sleeping in the nude and told me to keep a bag packed by my bed at night, just in case. I had forgotten all about that warning until just after six this morning when I found myself out on the street clad only in a beach cover-up and crocs, with my cell phone and keys in my pocket. Yes, the beach cover-up was the first thing I grabbed when I heard my housemate thunder down the stairs screaming that he smelled gas and that we had to get out of our house.

A loud crash had awakened my other housemates, although I had slept through it. Apparently a driver had lost control of his vehicle before crashing into this house.

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The sleepy occupants climbed over the wall to get out into the street. Meanwhile the truck spun around and continued down the street where it sheared off our water meter, struck the main gas line and then came to a stop on top of a hydro pole. The driver sat bleeding on the sidewalk until an ambulance showed up twenty-five minutes later. Rumor has it that the man has since died.

The above photos were taken later in the morning when it was light out.

Back to 6 am now. I sat there on the curb with my neighbor Carlos and his two dogs. I thought of my laptop, my life, back in my room. I thought of all my identification and my bank cards left behind. And I tried not to think of the worst case scenario in which everything would be blown to bits by that gas leak. So many items that would be extremely difficult if not impossible to replace. And I silently vowed that I would have a backpack with these items by my bed at night from now on.

I’m a people watcher by nature. I noticed that residents were quite animated and more concerned with their homes being looted by the police than they were with their homes being blown to bits by a gas explosion. And in our haste to flee we had left our doors open! Fortunately for us there were some honest police near our house. One even went back to lock our door.

The street was like a war zone — a blur of flashing lights, debris everywhere, downed power lines, water in the streets, the putrid odor of gas. 

Later in the morning, I snapped more photos of the devastation. In the following photo you can see some of the downed power lines requiring repair.

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In the photo above you can see the damage to our house where the car hit and sheared off the water meter.

Late in the afternoon, the gas, water and electricity were restored. So apparently things can get done efficiently and quickly here in Mexico, although it is a rarity.

There just never is a dull moment on Calle Zalatitan!

Calle Independencia, Tlaquepaque

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Calle Independencia, Tlaquepaque

One of my favorite streets in Tlaquepaque is Calle Independencia. This pedestrian pathway bustles with activity and music day and night. It is bordered by Ninos Heroes on one end and El Jardin Hidalgo on the other.

I began my stroll on Ninos Heroes, with an Oxxo on the corner and a chicken rotisserie across from it. There is no escaping Oxxo. These stores are everywhere. I then passed a shoe store and found myself in front of Tlaquepulque. No visit to Tlaquepaque is complete without a sampling of pulque, a specialty here.

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Steps later I arrived at the junction of Ejercito, an area resplendent with bars and music. The first of many statues along this street are also found here.

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I then continued along past restaurants, shops and a ceramic museum until I came across these guys.
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There are so many other fabulous ones like these, so I will add more photos.

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 There are several vendors displaying their wares although it is still quite early in the morning. Everything from jewelry to candy can be found here.

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The restaurants are preparing to open for the day, setting tables outside on the street.

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My two favorite restaurants are Casa Luna and El Patio. But there are several more along Independencia as well, some of them providing entertainment by mariachis.
And here is the most famous of the statues along this street.

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A variety of shops sell clothing, jewelry, leather, candy, tequila and decorative ornaments. But ever so popular are the ice cream stores.

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I soon arrive at the Jardin Hidalgo. While the fountains and flowers provide tranquility, this garden bustles with activity day and night. Food vendors offer everything from tortas ahogadas to roasted vegetables. And I highly recommend the churros! There is a kiosko in the square, and the garden is also flanked by two churches.

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I am very fortunate to have lived for the past four years within a fifteen minute walk of this amazing street. It’s no wonder that this has become a major tourist attraction here in Tlaquepaque.

I Will Miss You Tlaquepaque

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I Will Miss You Tlaquepaque

I first arrived in Tlaquepaque on October 1, 2011. This is a quaint area that is part of the greater metropolis of Guadalajara. But it has the feel of a small Mexican town and it’s a short twenty minute bus ride to El Centro, an area I have come to know very well.

Tlaquepaque grows on you. I live in the colony of San Pedro, much to the envy of many people. And I will miss this neighborhood when I head back to Canada for a while. Yes, I will miss the climate, but it’s the people and the culture that I will miss the most.

In the morning should I decide I want eggs for breakfast, it’s only a few feet to a tienda. These small corner stores are packed with products. And they are oh so convenient!

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If I don’t feel like cooking, Vic down the street cooks awesome burgers and another street vendor offers an array of tacos, gorditas and tostados. Another lady has wonderful tortas ahogadas. There is a stand with fresh juices. And the tamale truck drives by regularly. Ice cream vendors walk by constantly, and churros are just around the corner.

The people are all so friendly and greetings of Buenos Dias and Buenas Noches are the norm. My neighbor Carlos is always out walking his dogs. People sit out on their doorsteps and congregate on street corners. It is safe to walk the streets here, day and night.

A number of buses stop on the corner of my street regularly. The Zeta gas truck and the water truck drive by frequently. And it is not uncommon to see horses and wagons come by my house as well as cars.

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The Jardin Hidalgo is a ten minute walk from my house. The kiosko often comes alive with music in the evenings, and the street vendors are out in full force. My favorite incense shop is one of the many small shops near the garden. In one direction is the famed El Parian, and in the other direction is the popular Calle Independencia. Tourists flock to this area, especially on the weekends and during the winter months. Artesans display their wares and there are fabulous restaurants and bars in abundance. There is also a ceramics museum.

Also within a few blocks of my house is the El Refugio Cultural Center. The entertainment and displays here are amazing and there is often no charge for admission.

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My second home away from home is a small coffee shop called Jahanve. My friend Claudia brews awesome coffee and her culinary talents are most impressive. I have spent many happy hours over the years here with friends, and Timmie’s in Winnipeg cannot hold a candle to Jahanve.

I will also miss the music of my favorite band Barbershop. Amazing renditions of The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and Creedence Clearwater Revival are only part of their repertoire.

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I will miss the awesome museums and beautiful parks in Guadalajara. There are gorgeous statues and fountains in abundance on the streets here. The zoo is spectacular and boasts a sky ride and a safari ride.But my favorite retreat is Parque Mirador. The view of the canyon is beyond breathtaking.

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And last, but definitely not least, I will miss my students. Eager to learn and appreciative of my efforts, the hours have flown by all too quickly.  I have taught in private schools, language institutes and companies. My students have included accountants, doctors, lawyers, engineers, computer geeks, business people, teenagers and young children. Hours filled with animated conversation and grammar have sped by all too quickly. We have played games, had competitions, have decorated classrooms for holidays and have even tie-dyed T shirts.

It’s with a heavy heart that I will board a plane one month from today to return to Winnipeg. Today the weather up north is stormy—–snow and freezing rain. I sincerely hope that this will all have disappeared by the end of April.

But I will be returning to Mexico. This country is where my heart lies now. What was to be a one year venture has extended instead to almost five years. And I look forward to many more years here.

So I Went To Manzanillo

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So I Went To Manzanillo

I love my life in Mexico. Tlaquepaque is a delightful place to live. The one drawback is that there is no beach close by. By bus it’s just over five hours to Puerto Vallarta or seven hours to Mazatlan. I decided that the time had come to explore new beaches.

I headed for Central Nueva and boarded a bus for Manzanillo. I enjoyed the scenery as we traveled out of Jalisco and into the state of Colima.

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As well as a popular tourist destination, Manzanillo is also a major cargo port and has a small malecon. The Centro area is that of a typical Mexican puebla with a sizeable mercado and streets lined with small tiendas. 

I stayed at a hotel in the hotel zone area. There was very little within walking distance of the hotel itself; only a small mall and a few taquerias. However when I stepped out of my room, the view was spectacular.

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Steps down from the pool was the beach. The red flags were out and the tide was high. But I really did enjoy the sound of the waves crashing against the shore. This beautiful music lulled me to sleep at night and woke me from dreamland in the morning.

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I also enjoyed seeing the ships at a distance. Some were fishing trawlers and others were cargo. There were no cruise ships in view in the time I was there. Here are photos I took at sunset.

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 There is something so peaceful and serene about watching the sun slowly disappear from view in the evening. Do you agree?