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Calle Independencia, Tlaquepaque
One of my favorite streets in Tlaquepaque is Calle Independencia. This pedestrian pathway bustles with activity and music day and night. It is bordered by Ninos Heroes on one end and El Jardin Hidalgo on the other.
I began my stroll on Ninos Heroes, with an Oxxo on the corner and a chicken rotisserie across from it. There is no escaping Oxxo. These stores are everywhere. I then passed a shoe store and found myself in front of Tlaquepulque. No visit to Tlaquepaque is complete without a sampling of pulque, a specialty here.
Steps later I arrived at the junction of Ejercito, an area resplendent with bars and music. The first of many statues along this street are also found here.
I then continued along past restaurants, shops and a ceramic museum until I came across these guys.
There are so many other fabulous ones like these, so I will add more photos.
There are several vendors displaying their wares although it is still quite early in the morning. Everything from jewelry to candy can be found here.
The restaurants are preparing to open for the day, setting tables outside on the street.
My two favorite restaurants are Casa Luna and El Patio. But there are several more along Independencia as well, some of them providing entertainment by mariachis.
And here is the most famous of the statues along this street.
A variety of shops sell clothing, jewelry, leather, candy, tequila and decorative ornaments. But ever so popular are the ice cream stores.
I soon arrive at the Jardin Hidalgo. While the fountains and flowers provide tranquility, this garden bustles with activity day and night. Food vendors offer everything from tortas ahogadas to roasted vegetables. And I highly recommend the churros! There is a kiosko in the square, and the garden is also flanked by two churches.
I am very fortunate to have lived for the past four years within a fifteen minute walk of this amazing street. It’s no wonder that this has become a major tourist attraction here in Tlaquepaque.
I Will Miss You Tlaquepaque
I first arrived in Tlaquepaque on October 1, 2011. This is a quaint area that is part of the greater metropolis of Guadalajara. But it has the feel of a small Mexican town and it’s a short twenty minute bus ride to El Centro, an area I have come to know very well.
Tlaquepaque grows on you. I live in the colony of San Pedro, much to the envy of many people. And I will miss this neighborhood when I head back to Canada for a while. Yes, I will miss the climate, but it’s the people and the culture that I will miss the most.
In the morning should I decide I want eggs for breakfast, it’s only a few feet to a tienda. These small corner stores are packed with products. And they are oh so convenient!
If I don’t feel like cooking, Vic down the street cooks awesome burgers and another street vendor offers an array of tacos, gorditas and tostados. Another lady has wonderful tortas ahogadas. There is a stand with fresh juices. And the tamale truck drives by regularly. Ice cream vendors walk by constantly, and churros are just around the corner.
The people are all so friendly and greetings of Buenos Dias and Buenas Noches are the norm. My neighbor Carlos is always out walking his dogs. People sit out on their doorsteps and congregate on street corners. It is safe to walk the streets here, day and night.
A number of buses stop on the corner of my street regularly. The Zeta gas truck and the water truck drive by frequently. And it is not uncommon to see horses and wagons come by my house as well as cars.
The Jardin Hidalgo is a ten minute walk from my house. The kiosko often comes alive with music in the evenings, and the street vendors are out in full force. My favorite incense shop is one of the many small shops near the garden. In one direction is the famed El Parian, and in the other direction is the popular Calle Independencia. Tourists flock to this area, especially on the weekends and during the winter months. Artesans display their wares and there are fabulous restaurants and bars in abundance. There is also a ceramics museum.
Also within a few blocks of my house is the El Refugio Cultural Center. The entertainment and displays here are amazing and there is often no charge for admission.
My second home away from home is a small coffee shop called Jahanve. My friend Claudia brews awesome coffee and her culinary talents are most impressive. I have spent many happy hours over the years here with friends, and Timmie’s in Winnipeg cannot hold a candle to Jahanve.
I will also miss the music of my favorite band Barbershop. Amazing renditions of The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and Creedence Clearwater Revival are only part of their repertoire.
I will miss the awesome museums and beautiful parks in Guadalajara. There are gorgeous statues and fountains in abundance on the streets here. The zoo is spectacular and boasts a sky ride and a safari ride.But my favorite retreat is Parque Mirador. The view of the canyon is beyond breathtaking.
And last, but definitely not least, I will miss my students. Eager to learn and appreciative of my efforts, the hours have flown by all too quickly. I have taught in private schools, language institutes and companies. My students have included accountants, doctors, lawyers, engineers, computer geeks, business people, teenagers and young children. Hours filled with animated conversation and grammar have sped by all too quickly. We have played games, had competitions, have decorated classrooms for holidays and have even tie-dyed T shirts.
It’s with a heavy heart that I will board a plane one month from today to return to Winnipeg. Today the weather up north is stormy—–snow and freezing rain. I sincerely hope that this will all have disappeared by the end of April.
But I will be returning to Mexico. This country is where my heart lies now. What was to be a one year venture has extended instead to almost five years. And I look forward to many more years here.
The Countdown Is On
I can’t believe that my time is almost up in Mexico. It seems like only yesterday I arrived in Rosarito, and yet it was almost a year and a half ago.
I had fully intended to settle down in the Baja. However, after a week of unsuccessful attempts at finding an apartment, I decided that maybe Rosarito just wasn’t the place to hang my hat. While the beach definitely had its appeal, the idea of living in a poor man’s Vallarta did not.
After a spectacular bus ride through the mountains and a rather tedious journey south, I arrived in Culiacan in the face of hurricane warnings. But instead I was greeted by hot, humid and sunny weather. I spent a few days visiting with my Mexican family and then headed for Guadalajara.

I rented an apartment in the same house as I had the year before. I was home. My favorite tiendas and taco stands were still here. The neighbors were the same. The only difference was the newly paved sidewalks and streets, most welcome after having had knee surgery. I quickly and easily found a job teaching in a language institute, and the time has just flown by all too quickly.
My life here in Mexico has for the most part been comfortable and fulfilling, despite the challenges of obtaining a work visa and health care coverage. The stress level is significantly lower due to the slower pace of life. There’s always another bus, there’s always another train, there’s always another day.
I enjoy my classes and have amazingly delightful students. The learning experience has been reciprocal, and my students have taught me a great deal about life in general, not just life in Mexico. And I am so grateful to have had this wonderful opportunity over the past few years.
It was extremely difficult to book that flight back to Winnipeg. While I am excited about seeing my family and friends, as well as my book launch, I am not looking forward to the flurry of other activities that await me. After a prolonged absence, there are medical appointments and financial planning that require my attention.
But I am determined to focus on the more positive aspects of returning to Winnipeg. My son had a house built a couple of years ago and his yard is now finished. I have a lot of catching up to do with friends as a lot has happened in the time I’ve been away. There is a new museum I want to visit. IKEA is applying for a liquor licence and Target has come and gone. In lieu of my usual online church service while here in Mexico, it will be great to attend in person. I plan on going to some of my favorite restaurants with my friends. And a cemetery visit is definitely on the agenda to see family who have passed on.
But today is a beautiful, sunny day here in Mexico and my laundry is drying outside on the line. And I will venture out shortly to my favorite incense shop and then spend some time in the Jardin Hidalgo before I teach my afternoon classes.
A Park, A Book and A Journal
It’s a beautiful sunny day and I’m thinking of a million different things I should be doing this morning. I should do some laundry. I should pick up a few groceries. I should, I should, I should. But I won’t. Instead I pack up a book, my journal and of course my cell phone and I head to the park.
I use the term “park” quite loosely. There are very few trees here and there are no flowers. But there are tables and benches more conducive to writing or reading.
There are two basketball courts across from the table where I am sitting. Interestingly enough, I have never seen anyone play basketball here. Instead, the game of choice is soccer.
The swings, slides and climbers are always popular among the children.
But I sit here at a table, alternating between reading a book and writing in my journal. The shouts of the children and the roar of buses passing by are acceptable background noises. Occasionally a dog comes by to check me out and people passing by often greet me with “Buenas Tardes”.
The book I am reading today is about a family in Dublin. The father, an abusive alcoholic, disappears one night and is never heard from again. The wife is left alone to cope with three teenage sons who are resentful and bitter and have turned to a life of crime.
In my journal I am writing about feelings; mainly how I am tired of always trying to do the right thing and banging my head against a brick wall every time. That’s what it feels like. But it’s difficult to look the other way when you see others hurting, despite the fact that they are never there for you when you are in pain. And then they totally ignore your attempts to reach out to them. Life is just too damn short and every moment is precious. Maybe it’s time to change my focus.
My thoughts are interrupted by the chime of my cell phone. Apparently my daily horoscope has arrived. Groaning inwardly, I hesitantly tap the “ignore” icon and glance at the time. How could the hours have passed by so quickly? Reluctantly, I return my journal and book to my backpack. My students await and I have classes to teach. Life in Dublin and pondering my feelings will have to wait for another time.
So I Went To Manzanillo
I love my life in Mexico. Tlaquepaque is a delightful place to live. The one drawback is that there is no beach close by. By bus it’s just over five hours to Puerto Vallarta or seven hours to Mazatlan. I decided that the time had come to explore new beaches.
I headed for Central Nueva and boarded a bus for Manzanillo. I enjoyed the scenery as we traveled out of Jalisco and into the state of Colima.
As well as a popular tourist destination, Manzanillo is also a major cargo port and has a small malecon. The Centro area is that of a typical Mexican puebla with a sizeable mercado and streets lined with small tiendas.
I stayed at a hotel in the hotel zone area. There was very little within walking distance of the hotel itself; only a small mall and a few taquerias. However when I stepped out of my room, the view was spectacular.
Steps down from the pool was the beach. The red flags were out and the tide was high. But I really did enjoy the sound of the waves crashing against the shore. This beautiful music lulled me to sleep at night and woke me from dreamland in the morning.
I also enjoyed seeing the ships at a distance. Some were fishing trawlers and others were cargo. There were no cruise ships in view in the time I was there. Here are photos I took at sunset.
There is something so peaceful and serene about watching the sun slowly disappear from view in the evening. Do you agree?
Monday Monday
Monday morning! I remember when I used to dread Monday mornings. But that was another lifetime ago when I worked at jobs I did not enjoy. Here in Mexico it’s a whole different story.
I usually wake up a few minutes before my alarm goes off at 5:30 am. It’s still dark outside but my mood is light. Now, if only the temperature would warm up in Guadalajara. The mornings are quite cool in the winter and the mercury frequently dips to 5 Celsius or less.
By 6:30 I am on the street corner waiting for a 275 or a 275B. These are interesting buses as there are no schedules here. Usually they show up two at a time and then begin to race each other as they head towards Centro. Drivers are not paid a salary. They receive a percentage of the take. So the more passengers they can cram on the better.
Twenty minutes later finds me in Centro. It’s a short walk to Plaza de Universidad, where I await a Tur bus. This second bus costs twice as much as the first one, but it’s very comfortable and not as crowded and gets me to within three blocks of the school in Zapopan.
Time permitting, I walk through La Estancia Park. I enjoy watching people walking their dogs or themselves. People are friendly and I am always greeted with “Buenos dias”. Such a wonderful way to begin my day!
Time to head for school. I teach an Advanced ESL class with two adult students who are both accountants. They are delightful and are eager to learn English. They often surprise me with culinary treats. This morning they ordered in a delicious breakfast from a restaurant. On other days they have arrived with tamales or cookies or pastry. But what I like the best are the bright smiles and laughter that always pervade the classroom.
The two hours pass quickly and I am soon on my way back to San Pedro. The bus ride usually takes longer than it did earlier in the morning. The traffic in Guadalajara is unbelievably congested. To make matters worse, if an accident occurs, cars are not moved out of the way until the police arrive. This morning our bus took a completely different route to Centro, as traffic was backed up and our driver had no patience for traffic jams. Bus drivers here like to lean on their horns in an effort to keep traffic flowing. Not that it really helps. It just encourages cars to honk as well.
In San Pedro there is a street market on Mondays close to my house. It stretches for blocks and the variety of merchandise is astounding. Everything from pirated movies to tacos to fresh fish to clothing to tools can be found here. And the vendors love to haggle!
I return home and begin the tedious task of washing vegetables in Microdyn. I store them in empty yogurt containers, which we laughingly call Mexican Tupperware.
While the vegetables are soaking in the Microdyn, I take out my laptop and check emails and Facebook. And I begin writing a blog post.
I then take a walk to the park where I do some reading and journaling. I enjoy watching the children play in the playground and have fond memories of my own children at that age.
Then it’s off to Jahanve, my favorite coffee shop, to meet my language partner. I definitely need to practice my Spanish, and he is eager to improve his English.
I leave for home at dusk, contemplating what I will have for dinner. By now many of the street food vendors are out, and the tacos, tamales and birria are quite tempting. But today I have decided to cook some of those fresh vegetables along with some chicken.
After dinner I visit with my housemates and often phone friends back in Canada. And then it’s time to read and head for dreamland.
Mondays are great days!

My Dad, My Hero, In Heaven
On February 8, 1977 I was excitedly packing a suitcase. Four days later I was to leave for San Diego to visit my parents. They wintered down south as my dad had a heart condition and Winnipeg winters were far too strenuous to endure.
I fell asleep that night but was startled awake in the middle of the night by a pounding in my heart that actually caused me to sit up straight in bed. And I could not fall back asleep again. About an hour later my phone rang, and a voice at the other end informed me that my dad had passed away of a heart attack.
It was Wednesday, February 9th. And I would never see my daddy again. I would never hear his voice or the sound of his laughter again. I would never see him smile again. I would never feel a hug or a kiss again. My world was shattered and my life would never be the same again.
My dad taught me how to tie my shoelaces and how to ride a bike. He taught me how to drive a car. He impressed upon me the importance of getting an education. And he taught me a lot about life.
He left school at the age of fourteen as his own father became ill. He was the sole source of financial support to his parents and three younger siblings. His sisters and brother all went on to obtain a university education. He always put everyone else in his life first.
At home our freezer was always filled with ice cream, a treat he loved but had enjoyed so rarely as a child. Money earned was always for others, but never for himself.
My dad was truly a self-made man and worked long hours, successfully building up his company. He would sit at the kitchen table doing the accounting for his business and I would play the piano providing a musical background he enjoyed. Sometimes in the evenings he would go back to work to do some manual labor, and I would grab my homework and come along to keep him company.
When his health deteriorated, I often drove him to medical appointments or to go shopping. We spoke often on the phone and sent cassette tapes back and forth when he was in San Diego.
Sadly he never met his grandchildren. He would have adored them and loved them as only a grandfather can. My children have definitely missed out on not having a grandfather to dote on them and spend time with them.
I learned a lot from my dad, and I hope that I have instilled some of these values upon my own children. He always said “Where there’s a will, there’s a way” and that has been one of my mantras throughout the years.
Love you forever and always in my heart.
Monday Morning Musings
Monday morning. Dull and gloomy here in Guadalajara. Dark clouds threatening yet more rain. It’s also Dia de Candelaria. And it’s Groundhog Day. It’s February 2nd and this cold, rainy weather is getting old.
I went to the street market earlier and stocked up on veggies for the week. I’m contemplating cooking soup yet again. It goes well with the oatmeal I had for breakfast. This is my fourth winter in Guadalajara and I don’t recall it ever being this cold and rainy in the past. But then it’s definitely not snow.
I had an interesting What’s App message from my daughter asking me what name was on my passport. I actually had to pull it out of the drawer and check it before replying. It seems that since I have moved to Mexico, I now have a variety of names. The most common are my maiden name and my married name. But the name on my INAPAM card is my mother’s maiden name and my father’s surname. And when I go to IMSS they insist on calling me by my middle name. There are times when I feel like changing my name to “Amiga”, another way in which I am often addressed here in Mexico.
I’m returning to Winnipeg this spring. Of course I have yet to make any definitive travel plans. I’ve gotten used to this Mexican way of life where long range plans seldom exist. I plan on teaching until Easter break, and then I want to do some traveling. So I have no idea exactly where I will be flying out of.
There are so many places I want to explore. I’d like to head south to Oaxaca and Chiapas. I’d like to head to the coast to San Blas, Bucerias and Sayulita. But I don’t think all that will be possible in less than one month.

Just ran out to the tienda on the corner. The rain has started again so I think I won’t venture out again for a while. I did have some errands to do but they can wait. Although I will miss my favorite capucino at Jahanve.
So if the groundhog saw his shadow, it means six more weeks of winter up in the north. Does it mean six more weeks of rain here in Guadalajara?????
Time to switch over to Duolingo and practice Spanish, a great activity for a rainy day.
Adios!
Museo Militar…………..Military Museum
I am totally against war. I have no use for the senseless killing of innocent people, especially children. If all the money directed to nuclear weapons was instead used for health services and education, the world would be a far better place. But there is no hope of that happening in my lifetime. Violence and terrorism are all too commonplace.
When I first arrived in Guadalajara over three years ago, I took a Tapatio Tour Bus for an overview of the city, and the Museo Militar was one of the sights highly recommended by the tour guide.
The front entrance and the rear courtyard are visible from the street, attracting the attention of anyone driving or walking by. The front entrance features aircraft, vehicles and statues. Here are three of the several on display.
































































